Wednesday, November 16, 2011

"Pro" Climbers: Fact or Fiction?

This issue is to me the new world debate in the culture of rock climbing. On one had there are fundamentalists who believe that rock climbing is a purely personal endeavor without commercial value and should be treated as such. In my experience, these are the guys and gals that fought for climbing the hard way by developing boulders, boulting routes, or just trad climbing. They're afraid of the new culture all these little gym rats are creating. With the focus more and more on competitions and gym climbing, I suppose they see their lifelong hobby turning into something more like professional basketball than exploring the woods. I use "they" very loosely on both sides because I find myself split between halves.

stone cold killer
If those climbers who don't like the idea of "pro" climbers can be considered (for simplicity's sake) the old timers, then I guess the Adam Ondras and Ashima Shiraishis are the young bucks pushing the sport to a whole new level of competitiveness.

I used to laugh when my friends asked me if I wanted to become a professional climber since I was at the gym all the time. I told them there was no such thing as a professional climber. Except for a handful of heavily sponsored old farts who dominated the brands, there just wasn't a way to make a living off climbing. That's what I said, apparently I was wrong. Now I know that very few guys outside Sharma and Lynn Hill are making a comfortable living off of rock climbing. Most are just dirtbags with free shoes, but with the way climbing is going, I'm not so sure it'll stay like that.

Like I said before, I find myself split here because I don't like the idea of climbing areas being overrun by hoards of climbers, but at the same time I can't say I blame anyone for trying to make a living off of rock climbing. If I were strong enough to make rock climbing a profession and I had sponsors offering me money to travel and climb, of course I'd do it. So maybe those of us who aren't elite level athletes are just jealous?

With an industry which is growing as rapidly as climbing is, there's really no telling how all the people of the community will be affected. Maybe access will become a real issue and the secrecy with which crags are guarded in the Southeast will become even more fierce. Maybe the community will become so embittered and disenfranchised towards one another that we won't even spot each other at boulder fields anymore. I'm being terribly sarcastic here, or rather hoping that what I've said is sarcastic because it could never happen.

With Tommy Caldwell updating us on his progress day by day, hour by hour, from an iphone while on El Cap, it's clear that times are a changin.

So what does that mean for the rest of us? Are professional athletes the first step in the de evolution of a pure outdoor pursuit, or the greatest tool in the advancement and preservation of the climbing community? Does it all matter? 

I want to know what you think.

3 comments:

  1. PHI beat you to the punch.

    http://professionalhaters.blogspot.com/2011/05/rock-climbing-is-not-blowing-up-and.html

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  2. Haha there are plenty of times when I hope hes right. I don't know though, something tells me our crazy little hobby is taking off in big ways.

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  3. The issue is money and people. Do you know of any other sports where more money and more people have made it better? I'd say no.

    I think it is great that there is no 'real' money to be made as a pro climber, it keeps things cool. Having spent a lot of time in sports like surfing or snowboarding where the pros make big money I can tell you it sucks ass. The cost of the gear becomes way more expensive and the hype is just so lame as everyone turns to watch whatever joe pro is doing.

    A neat thing about climbing too is the undercover crushers. You know, those guys with jobs who show up and send.

    What is pro climbing? It's really just marketing of climbing gear/apparel/lifestyle. As Americans, we are constantly bombarded by very aggressive marketing and I like the simplicity of climbing and the thrifty roots of the game, and would like to keep it that way.

    With any luck, the ones who are just trying to do it for the money will figure out it isn't there and quit.

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